VP Free FAQs
I'm having trouble dialing in the front derailleur, do you have any tips?
Due to the amount of travel on the Free, and resulting bb height, you should always tune the front derailleur with the suspension sagged properly. Take a screwdriver and allen wrench and go for a spin in the parking lot, and just make small adjustments as you go.
What front derailleur should I use on my VP Free?
The best front derailleur is the Saint M805. This will work for a double or triple crankset. A XT or XTR will work with a double ring, but not a triple. Either way, buy a 34.9mm top swing, top pull.
What size shock is in my new VP-Free?
2005 VP-Free shock size** -
8.75" eye to eye x 2.75" stroke
Mounting Bushing width -
Front - 22mm
Rear - 22mm
Mounting Bolt Diameter -
Front - 8mm
Rear - 8mmv
**Note: All our stock OE rear shocks are tuned/damped specifically for each frame model. Aftermarket shocks may not feel the exact same as the OE stock rear shocks that ship with our frames as standard.
How long should my chain be?
This will depend on the size gearing you are using.
To check correct chain length, take the spring out of the shock and compress the suspension all the way. Then install the chain as you normally would.
The VP-Free’s VPP system uses chain growth to pedal efficiently, so it is important to take this extra step. While you have the spring out, check to make sure the tire won’t hit the saddle under bottom out.
I’d like to try a different shock on my VP-Free, can I buy that from Santa Cruz?
We do sell 5th Element rear shocks separately for use on our bikes to Authorized Santa Cruz Dealers. Contact your shop if you need a new one.
Unfortunately, due to manufacturer agreements, we cannot sell Fox or Manitou rear shocks separately. Please contact the shock manufacturer if you would like to purchase either of those.
What kind of chain guide will fit on my VP-Free?
We sell E-Thirteen guides with our kits, and have had excellent luck with those. MRP makes a number of guides that will work: the Slalom, World Cup and Ultraspeed versions of the System 2. We have not tried any other brands of guides, so call the manufacturer if you want to use something else. Occasionally, using some brands require a willingness to cut and file away material. We don’t recommend cutting or modifying pieces of your frame to fit a chainguide unless you’re willing to forfeit your warranty.
I have the custom Truvativ bb with the 6mm spacer, where do I buy a replacement?
With the new Saint front derailleur there is no need for our custom system anymore. We do not have the custom bb anymore. However, as the only custom part is the drive side cup, you can buy a stock Truvativ Gigapipe DH 73/128mm bb and put your drive side cup on there. Or you can get the saint derailleur and save some weight and complication, it's up to you.
What size seatpost does the VP-Free use?
30.9mm; which must be inserted a minimum of 4"
Does the VP-Free have ISCG mounts?
The ‘06 model (and previous) don’t use one and need a standard BB flange mounted guide. The ‘07 frames do have an integral ISCG 05 mount.
Can I use Truvativ Holzfeller Howitzer cranks on my Free?
Sure, but you will have to face the bb shell first. The ridge on the non-drive side will interfere with the cup if you don't face it off first. Depending on the size of your cutter, you may want to remove the lower link pivot axle cap beforehand so you don't cut into the cap. Buy a bottom bracket for a 73mm shell, and 56mm chainline.
I ride aggressively and crash a lot and I’m worried about ovalizing the headtube. I was thinking of trying one of those deep insert headsets like the Chris King Steelset or a Race Face Diabolus. What do you think?
The VP-Free has a big, thick, durable headtube, made for extreme use. We haven’t seen any problems whatsoever with people damaging them (including our sponsored riders: Nathan Rennie, Cameron Zinc, Tyler Klassen, Marla Streb, Kurt Vories, etc.).
We recommend standard length headsets. As long as your headset is pressed in properly, and you keep it adjusted, you will be just fine.
Also, our head tube is internally and externally butted, allowing for really thick walls where needed (at the ends), and a little bit of weight shaving elsewhere. This butting makes it really difficult to remove the deep press headsets because the tool ends up hitting the butt shoulder, and not the headset. Do what you wish, just be prepared with a lot of beer, pizza, money, and time when you ask the shop rats to yank your deep insert headset out 2 years down the road.
My custom Truvativ VP-Free BB has a 6mm spacer and a 2.5mm spacer- where do I put them?
The 6 mm spacer sits in between the frame and your e-type derailleur or chainguide, which sits against the shoulder on the BB cup. The 2.5mm spacer is for those who are using a clamp-type derailleur on their double ring drivetrain. In this case, stack that spacer in next to the 6mm, and you are good to go. If you are using the e-type or a chain guide, you can get rid of the 2.5mm spacer.
I have a WTB 150/12mm hub for my VP-Free. What do I do with the thin cassette spacer that came with it?
That spacer is required so that your cassette is properly spaced away from the spokes. Put the spacer on first, then slide your cassette on.
Can I use Saint or Raceface Diabolus X-Type Cranks?
Shimano does not make an external bearing crankset that is compatible with the Free. It is possible to rig a Saint or XT crank on there, but it will have poor chainline, and will not clear the ridge on the non-drive side of the bb shell. We don’t recommend this at all.
Raceface now offers a version of the Diabolus/ Evolve DH that will work. You need the 83mm bb shell version, which offers a 57.5mm chainline. You also need the 73mm shell adaptor kit. The normal version of the Diabolus/Evolve DH/Atlas will work poorly due to improper chainline.
What’s up with that ridge anyway?
That is there so that the bearing cap in the pivot sits flush with the outside of the frame, not sticking out. This is important for bearing sealing reasons.
Why does my VP-Free have a custom bottom bracket and the funky seat tube clamp with the e-type front derailleur?
This is a fun one. The main obstacle to great front shifting on the Free is the high bottom bracket height required by the 8.5 inches of travel. The angle of the chain from the top of the chain rings to the top of the cassette is much greater than hardtails or mid-travel suspension bikes (The type of bikes current ft derailleurs were originally designed for).
The problem - Because of the front derailleur design issue mentioned above the chain rides much lower in the front derailleur cage, missing the shifting "sweet spot", and dragging on the bottom of the cage in some gears. You can avoid this by lowering your standard derailleur down on the seat tube, which places the chain between the shifting ramps on the derailleur. However, when you use a triple, you cannot lower the derailleur, as it would hit the big ring. So you are back with problems of dragging on the bottom of the cage, and difficult downshifts.
The solution - We wanted the bike to work with a triple, so we designed the E-type clamp. What this does is keep the derailleur at a proper height, but rotates it counter clockwise around the chain rings. This puts the chain in the proper spot on the front derailleur, and minimizes dragging on the bottom of the cage (it may still drag a little in certain granny gear combos depending on gear sizes and amount of sag).
Adding yet another problem to the mix is the fact that Shimano front derailleurs (e-type or clamp style) don’t have enough throw to shift to the big ring on a triple with a 128mm BB. We had Truvativ make us some extra long BB cups that allow for a 6mm spacer in between the frame and the e-type derailleur. That puts it in the perfect spot to shift into all of the chainrings.
*We do sell these custom bottom brackets and e-type derailleur clamp separately if you are not buying our complete build kit. If you plan to run a triple front chainring, and you want your drivetrain to work, this is a good idea.
The update- Shimano listened to our pleas, and came out with the new Saint M805 front derailleur, which works smoothly with any chainring combo. Get the 34.9mm top swing, top pull version and you will be happy.
What size bottom bracket should I use on my VP-Free?
This one depends on what cranks you are using. The 150 spacing requires a 55-57mm chainline, instead of a 47.5 to 50mm that you would use on a Blur or a Bullit, etc. Basically the chain rings should be 5 to 7.5mm further outside than typical.
With most ISIS cranks, you should use a 128mm spindle (‘06 model - 73x128mm ISIS BB / ‘07 model - 83x128mm ISIS BB).
If you have any doubts what spindle length you need for the specific cranks you are using, call the crank manufacturer and ask what size spindle to use to achieve that 55 chainline. Just make sure you buy a BB for a 73mm or 83mm shell!
With most ISIS cranks, you should use a 128mm spindle (73x128mm ISIS BB).
If you have any doubts what spindle length you need for the specific cranks you are using, call the crank manufacturer and ask what size spindle to use to achieve that 55 chainline. Just make sure you buy a BB for a 73mm shell!
Why does my VP-Free have 150mm rear hub spacing?
150mm wheel spacing with 12mm through axle is becoming the new standard for downhill and freeride bikes.
The advantages are:
1) Much stronger wheels because of the dishless (or almost dishless, depending on the model) hubs. Wider hub flange spacing + no dish = stronger wheel.
2) To match the wide wheel, a wide bottom bracket must be used to provide proper chainline. This keeps your chain further away from the rear tire- allowing for a granny ring with a 2.7-3.0" tire and no rubbing.