What chainguide should I get for my Nomad Carbon?
The Nomad uses the ISCG05 interface, so most guides that are sold with these mounts should fit.
The easiest fit on the Nomad is the MRP Mini G, or the older E-thirteen SRS/LG1. Unfortunately the newer E-thirteen models (LG1+ and SRS+) have some clearance issues. The LG1 can be made to work with significant modifications, but the SRS+ is not really an option. We have also had good success with the range of Gamut guides.
For a dual ring setup, use the MRP LRP or E-thirteen DRS (requires slight mods).
What kind of front derailleur do I need?
The Nomad requires a 34.9mm top swing (low clamp) top pull front derailleur. Unfortunately due to some cable routing differences, SRAM front derailleurs will not work. Use any of the shimano models except Saint, and you will be fine.
It looks like the lower link is off center in my frame- is everything ok?
Yes- this is correct. With our newer pivot system, the pivot axle draws the link over to one side in order to properly preload the bearings. This offset is accounted for in the frame design so everything ends up nice and straight in the end.
What size headset does the Nomad Carbon use?
The Nomad has a 1.5" headtube. We recommend a proper 1.5" steerer fork or one of the newer tapered forks for a stiffer front end. There are also plenty of reducing headsets on the market which allow use of the larger bearings of the 1.5" system along with your 1 1/8 fork. If you want to continue using your current 1 1/8" headset, give us a call and we can sell you some headtube reducers.
What size seatpost do I need?
The Nomad uses a 30.9mm seatpost. Make sure you always have it inserted a minimum of 4" (100mm). We are big fans of the adjustable seatposts on the market from Gravity Dropper and Crank Brothers, and have included guides on the frame to cleanly run the cables.
Use liberal amounts of the included Carbon Assembly Compound in the seat tube and on the seatpost to prevent slipping. Do not grease the seatpost.
What size seat collar does the Nomad use?
34.9mm (supplied with frame)
What size rear hub does the Nomad require?
The Nomad uses a normal 135 x 10mm quick release hub. There are also numerous companies offering 135x10mm through-bolt style if you want to go that route.
What fork is recommended for the Nomad?
In general, the Nomad was designed for a 160mm fork. This will be best for all around use. There are a couple of 170mm options that will work great as well, depending on your terrain. The longest we allow is 180mm of travel- any longer will void your warranty. You probably shouldn't go any shorter than 150mm for geometry reasons, but that is up to you.
What size shock does the Nomad use?
8.5" x 2.5" (216x 63mm)
The mounting hardware is 22mm (21.8mm for rockshox products) wide with an 8mm through hole.
What size bottom bracket do I need?
The Nomad uses a 73mm bb shell, so make sure you always get something compatible with that. Pretty much any external bearing crankset will work- Truvativ, shimano, etc. Chainline should be 50-51mm.
What is the biggest tire that will fit in the Nomad?
We hate to answer this question, as tires vary so much (even tires of the same exact model can vary significantly). In general, a 2.5" or maybe even bigger should fit- but it depends...
There was a packet of "friction paste" or "carbon assembly compound" included with my frame- what is this for?
Use this on your seatpost. Carbon frames have a pretty slippery inner surface that makes it difficult to get the seatpost held tight without massive tightening forces at the collar. Using the carbon assembly compound adds friction so you don't need to crank the heck out of the seat collar.
Definitely keep grease off your seatpost for the same reason.
Should I grease the headset cups when I press them into the carbon frame?
Sure. Just don't use the Carbon Assembly Compound- the added friction will make headset removal more difficult.
Why doesn't the Nomad have a through-axle rear end?
Basically, it doesn't need it. Our VPP bikes are renowned for their stiffness- ask anyone who's ridden one. This is partially due to our design priorities, and also due to the natural stiffness of the rigid triangular swingarms. When starting with such a stiff structure, adding a through-axle really doesn't gain much. But it gets a bit heavier- and cuts down quite a bit on hub/wheel options.
Certainly some other bikes (with pivots near the dropout) may benefit quite a bit from a rear through-axle, but for us it needlessly adds compatibility complications and weight.
