The Driver 8 was designed to be serviced very easily, and does not require removal of cranks, bb, rear wheel or brake to service the pivots. Feel free to leave it fully assembled.
Step 1: Remove Shock
- Use a 6mm allen wrench and 13mm wrench to remove the shock.
- Use a 6mm allen wrench to remove the four bolts attaching
the upper link. Remove the link being careful not to lose any of the
bearing caps.
- Use a seal pick to remove the bearing caps and black rubber seals covering the bearings.
- Assemble the 6902 Removal Tool as shown, and extract the bearing using an 8mm allen wrench and 11/16" wrench.
- Repeat for the other 3 bearings.
- Clean bearings and link bores and inspect bores for burrs or damage. Smooth out with emery cloth or exacto blade if necessary.
- Assemble
the "6902/7902/7900 Press Tool" as shown and press bearings one at a
time using (2) 11/16" wrenches. Make sure the bearings press all the
way to their seat.
- Press
the rubber seals back in with the smooth side in. It is important to
get these seated all the way, so use a blunt object (a 5mm Allen wrench
works well) to press the outer diameter of the seal all the way down.
- Apply a small dab of grease to the protruding part of the bearing caps and install all of them into the lower seals. Rotate them to ensure there is not excessive friction from the seals. If any are rubbing, remove the cap and re-seat the seal.
- Using a 5mm Allen wrench, remove the two bolts from the non-drive side of the lower link.
- Use
the same 5mm Allen wrench to remove the tapered washers from the pivot
axle. Wedge the Allen wrench into the bolt hole and side load it to pop
the tapered washer out.
- Using an 8mm Allen wrench, loosen and remove the pivot axles.
- You should be able to remove the two bearing caps by hand.
- Remove the black rubber seals with a seal pick or awl. A small blade will work in a pinch.
- Install the "7902 Bearing Removal Tool (D8 lower link)" as
shown, and tap it into the bearings until the tines snap in behind the
bearings. There are two bearings sandwiched next to each other (8
bearings total in the lower link), so be sure to get the tool purchased
behind the inner bearing.
- Clamp the lower link in a vice using the bearing caps that remain in the front pivot.
- Use a hammer to tap bearings out.
- Repeat for the opposing pair of bearings.
- Place
(2) 7902 bearings on the "6902/7902/7900 Press Tool" as shown. These
are the bearings that have no seals or shields on them. Make sure that
the thicker inner race faces outward!
- Using (2) 11/16" wrenches, tighten the nuts together until both bearings are fully seated.
- Repeat for the outer set- but this time using the bearings with metal shields (these face out).
- Press the seals on with the smooth side in. It is important to get these seated all the way, so use a blunt object (a 5mm Allen wrench works well) to press the outer diameter of the seal all the way down.
- Apply a small dab of grease to the protruding part of the bearing caps and install all of them into the seals. Rotate them to ensure there is not excessive friction from the seals. If any are rubbing, remove the cap and re-seat the seal.
- Repeat Steps 6 and 7 for the front set of bearings
- Clean pivot axles, bolts, and tapered washers of grease and loctite.
- Install lower link assembly onto the swingarm first.
- Apply Loctite 242 to the threads, and coat the external surface of the slotted end of the axle with grease.
- Use
an 8mm allen wrench to thread the axle through the link and into the
frame. The axle should be only snug- not tight. Think of it like
adjusting a headset- you want it as loose as possible while still
removing any lateral play. It will vary slightly, but tightening it to
40 in/lbs is a pretty safe bet. This is not very tight.
- Apply
grease to the external surface of one of the tapered washers, and
install one of the M6 bolts through it. Apply Loctite 242 to the
threads, and tighten to 110 in/lbs.
- Repeat steps c- e for the front pivot.
- Check pivots for lateral play. If any exits, remove the wedge and bolt from the offending pivot, and tighten the pivot axle until play is eliminated.
- Apply loctite 242 to the threads of the four M8 bolts.
- Loosely attach all four bolts to the frame and swingarm
- Once all four are attached, tighten them to 135 in/lbs.
- Apply loctite 242 to the threads on the shorter of the two shock bolts (M8x 40), and install the thin shim washer under the head of the bolt.
- Place the rear eyelet of the shock in the lower link, and loosely install this bolt.
- Lightly grease the threads of the M8x 45 bolt, and install into the front mounting point of the shock- using one washer under the bolt head, and one washer under the M8 nut.
- Tighten bolts to 190 in/lbs.
- Follow the instructions included in the grease gun package to load a grease cartridge into the gun. Squeeze the trigger until you get a consistent flow with no air pockets.
- Use a 9/16" or adjustable wrench and some pliers to loosen the nozzle on the gun. Hold the nut stationary and loosen the knurled cap with pliers. A vice with axle clamps also works to hold the knurled cap.
- Don't loosen the cap too much, just enough where you can press the gun onto the grease fittings on your lower link.
- Once it pops onto the fitting, tighten the knurled cap down so the gun grips the fitting.
- Fill the link until you feel the pressure increase, then stop.
- Remove the rear wheel and Maxle.
- Use a 3mm allen
wrench to loosen the derailleur hanger setscrew about 3 turns. Make
sure your wrench is in good condition, and be careful not to strip the
bolt heads.
- Use the 19mm socket to completely remove the derailleur hanger nut.
- Apply loctite 242 to new hanger and install with the nut finger tight. Make sure the hanger is rotated all the way forward.
- Tighten the setscrew until it just touches the hanger.
- Torque the nut to 100 in/lbs.
- Tighten set screw to 60 in/lbs