Blur Bearing Overhaul Instructions

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Additional Details

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Tools required:

• (2) 4mm allen wrenches
• (2) 5mm allen wrenches
• 6mm allen wrench
• 5/16"allen wrench
• 7/8"wrench
• 3/4"wrench
• 11/16"wrench
• plastic mallet
• VPP Press Tool
• punch set (maybe)
• 680 loctite
• 242 loctite
• Rock and Roll Super Coat grease
• Q-tip
• Acetone

The Blur Pro-Pack Includes:

• (4) 6901SM lower link bearings
• (2) R6 2RSMAX seatstay end bearings
• (2) 6800 2RSMAX upper link bearings
• (2) lower pivot axles with caps and M8 bolts
• rear shock shaft with caps and M6 bolts
• upper link pivot axle with caps and M6 bolts
• front shock shaft with M5 bolts and washers
• sample pack 680 loctite
• (4) lower bearing inner seals

The Blur Bearing Pack Includes:

• (4) 6901SM lower link bearings
• (2) R6 2RSMAX seatstay end bearings
• (2) 6800 2RSMAX upper link bearings
• (4) Lower bearing inner seals

Step 1: Read the Instructions!

It's the right thing to do, so just go ahead and do it. Understand what you are about to encounter. Remove rear wheel, crankset, and BB (only if you have an external bearing bb) from the frame.
Clean off the major dirt so you don't contaminate grease or Loctite later on.

Step 2: Remove the Shock

• Grab your 4mm allen wrenches. Turn counterclockwise until one of the bolts comes out. Re-install the removed bolt 5-6 threads without it's washer, and tap it until it bottoms on the frame. Remove this bolt, and continue tapping the shaft out using a punch, 6mm allen, or long M5 bolt. Place a rag between the front of your shock and the downtube to avoid scratching the paint. (Fig.1)
• Now you are going to do the same thing with the rear shock axle. Once you have removed one of the bolts, re-install it without its cap, and tap until it bottoms on the bearing. This will protect the pivot axle from damage if it is tight. Now tap the shaft all the way out with a long M6 bolt, punch, or 8mm allen. (Fig.2)

Fig. 1 Fig. 2

Step 3: Remove the Upper Link

• Squeeze the dropouts together and pull the seatstay ends off the upper link.
• Using the 4mm allen wrenches, remove a bolt and tap the shaft out just like you did on the shock shafts.
• Pull the upper link out, taking care not to lose the two "top hat" spacers (Fig.3)
• Removing a New Style Ti link - You will need a cut down 5mm allen wrench for the inner bolt, and a 6mm allen for the outer nut. Turn outer allen wrench counterclockwise until bolts are removed. There are no "top hat" spacers with the ti link. (Fig.4)

Fig. 3 Fig. 4

Step 4: Remove the Lower Link

• Remove the lower link shafts using the same procedure as the other shafts. This will separate the front and rear triangles.

Step 5: Prep for Re-Assembly

• Clean the pivot axles and scrape off dried Loctite from the bolts. Coat all of the pivot axles with your Super Coat Grease, or another high quality, sticky, slick grease.

Step 6: Remove the Upper Link Bearings

• Get your removal tool out- that is the more compact of the two tools. Place the flat side of the removal cup against the outside of the upper link bearing. Slide the bolt through so that the head of the bolt is outside the frame. Inside the frame, place the small removal bushing against the bearing, and then the nut. Center the removal bushing on the bearing.
• Using your 5/16" allen and 11/16" wrench, tighten against each other until the bearing is removed. . You will probably hear a snap when the bearing breaks loose. No worries, that is just the loctite seal being broken.
• Repeat for the other side (Fig.5)

Fig. 5

Step 7: Remove Seatstay End Bearings

• Align the tool in a similar manner as in step 6. This time, place the c-shaped "centering tool" between the swingarm and the removal cup. This tool is flat, about a square inch in size. This will protect the paint. Make sure the centering tool is only contacting the flat portion of the seatstay end.
• Tighten the bolt and nut against each other until the bearing comes out.
• Repeat for other side. (Fig.6)

Fig. 6

Step 8: Remove the Lower Link Bearings

• Flip the removal cup around, so that the bolt head is on the flat side. Place the tool on the lower link bearing of either the front triangle or the swingarm. The Removal cup should have the raised ridge facing the frame. The cutout portion of the ridge should be aligned to avoid the weld on the swingarm.
• Use the small removal bushing on the inside of the frame, and install the nut.
• Make sure that the bushing is centered on the bearing, and tighten the nut until the bearing comes out.
• Repeat for all 4 lower bearings. (Fig.7)

Fig. 7

Step 9: Clean the Bores

• Using a knife or dental pick, carefully scrape dried loctite out of the bores. Try not to remove or gouge any aluminum. Use a knife to remove any burrs that may have been lifted up in the bore from the installation or removal of bearings. Use your acetone to remove every bit of grease, dirt, or loctite. The loctite requires a very clean surface to cure properly. Acetone the outer races of the new bearings as well. (Fig.8)

Fig. 8

Step 10: Install the Upper Link Bearings

• Apply a thin layer of loctite 680 to one of the upper link bearing bores using a Q-tip.
• The removal cup will be on the inside of the frame this time, flat side against the frame. Slide the installation bushing onto the bolt, the side with the V groove in the O.D should face the bolt. Slide the bearing onto this assembly, and insert it through the bore and into the removal cup and nut. (Fig.9)

Fig. 9

• Tighten the bolt against the nut, pressing the bearing into the bore. Stop immediately if the bearing starts going crooked; pull it out, and remove the burr that you lifted with a knife.
• The bearing is fully seated when it bottoms on the shoulder.
• Repeat for other side. Check to see if the bearings spin smoothly. (Fig. 10)

Fig. 10

Step 11: Install the Upper Link

• Slide the greased upper link shaft into one of the upper link bearings, until it protrudes about 3mm past the bearing. Place one of the top link washers onto this shaft with the smaller diameter side facing the bearing. Hold the other top hat on the other bearing, and hold it there while you wedge the upper link in between the washers. (Fig. 11)
• Tap the shaft through the upper link- make sure the link and both of the top hats are aligned before tapping too hard. Apply Loctite 242 to the bolt and torque to 90 in/lbs.

Fig. 11

Step 12: Installing Ti Upper Link

• Install links as shown with the extended portions facing outside. Insert the "female" part of the bolt assembly from the outside. Apply loctite 242 to the bolt, and install using your cut 5mm allen wrench Torque to 90 in/lbs. (Fig. 12)

Fig. 12

Step 13(1): Install the Lower Bearings on Blur Classic, LT, and 4X

• Apply a layer of 680 loctite to the lower bearing bores in the front triangle.
• If you have a new propack with the 6901SM bearings, make sure you orient them so the thicker inner race is facing the link.
• Hold the lower link in place between bearing mount "ears" and slide the tool through with both bearings. Do not use the centering tool at this point.
• Tighten the nuts against each other using your 3/4" and 7/8" wrench. Stop immediately if one of them starts going in crooked. If this happens, remove the bearing, scrape out any burrs you might have created, and try again.
• Press the bearings until they both bottom on the lower link. The bearings do not need to be pressed fully into the bore- only until they contact the link. (Fig. 13)

Fig. 13

Step 13(2): Install Lower Bearings on Blur XC

• Apply a layer of 680 loctite to one of the lower bearing bores in the front triangle.
• If you have a new propack with the 6901SM bearings, make sure you orient them so the thicker inner race is facing the link.
• You must install one bearing at a time on the XC model to avoid damaging the frame. Install press tool as shown with small nut on the inside.
• One press adaptor with a bearing should be on the outside of the frame, with the large nut outside of it.
• Install the centering tool on the inside of the frame, flat side facing the bearing. To help align everything, install your other press adaptor in the other bore. This will act as a pilot for you threaded rod.
• Tighten nuts until bearing hits centering tool.
• Repeat for opposite side.
• Install link between bearings and check clearance- you want the link to be a slightly snug fit at this point between the bearings.
• If you have slop between the bearings and link, repress each bearing a tiny bit using the above procedure, except this time install the centering tool with the flat side facing away from the bearing. This will allow the bearing to come in slightly further. Work until you get a snug fit. Skip step 13 and 14 below. (Fig. 14)

Fig. 14

Step 14: Centering the Lower Link

• The bearings will probably not press in equally, and if so, will need centering. Find the side of the lower link that has the most space in between the link and the frame tabs. Slide the centering tool in between the frame tab and the press adaptor on the side with the larger gap.
• Tighten the nuts together until the link is centered. (Fig. 15)

Fig. 15

Step 15: Check Bearing Alignment

• Remove the tool and link from the front triangle, and clean out excess loctite.
• Slide one of your pivot axles through one bearing until it contacts the opposing bearing. Check out how straight the bearing is, then try it from the opposing side. (Fig. 16)
• If either of the bearings is a LITTLE crooked, you can straighten it by tapping perpendicularly on the pivot axle when it is in the crooked bearing. Take it easy, it doesn't take much to straighten them. If it is significantly crooked, remove it and try again.
• Now that both of your bearings are perfectly aligned with each other, make sure that they are still snug against the link. There should be very little slop between the link and the bearings. If there is a gap re-press without the centering tool (but with the link installed) to close this gap.
• Make sure there is a snug fit between the bearings and the link at this point. If you have a stubborn frame where there always seems to be some slop, try the Blur XC bearing press procedure above. That will allow you to draw each bearing in slightly until there are no gaps.
• Now remove the link, and repeat the press process for the swingarm.

Fig. 16

Step 16: Install Bearing Seals

• If you have a newer pro-pack with the black rubber seals, press them onto the bearing inner race that faces the link. Try to wedge them in under the lip on the frame as best as possible. ( Fig. 17 )

Fig. 17

Step 17: Assemble the Lower Pivot

• Install the lower link into the swingarm, and slide a greased pivot axle through.
• Apply loctite 242 to the bolt, and tighten to 115 in/lbs.
• Repeat to install the lower link to the front triangle.
• Once the bolts are properly torqued, check the bearings for smooth operation and side-side play.( Fig. 19 )

Fig. 18

Step 19: Install the Seatstay End Bearings

• Apply a thin coating of loctite 680 to one of the seatstay end bearing bores.
• Assemble the removal tool on the seatstay end without the removal cup. Slide the installation bushing onto the bolt, with the V-shaped cutout facing away from the bolt head. Slide the bearing onto this assembly, and insert this into the bore. The bolt head will be outside of the frame. On the other side of the bore, install the nut, and place the centering tool in between the frame and the nut.
• Tighten this assembly together until the bearing is fully seated against the shoulder.
• Repeat for the other side. (Fig.19)

Fig. 19

Step 20: Install the Shock

• Squeeze the dropouts together and slide the seatstay ends over the upper link.
• Tap the greased rear shock axle through the bearings, link, and rear shock eyelet.
• Apply loctite 242 to the bolt, and torque to 95 in/lbs
• Check for smooth operation of the pivots and shock bushings. Ensure that the shock reducers are not rotating on the shock axle- the shock should be rotating on the reducers.
• Grease the front shock axle, and install it in the front of the shock. Apply loctite 242 to the bolt and torque to 90 in/lbs. (Fig. 20)

Fig. 20

Step 21: Check Pivot Axles for Proper Function

• There is a possibility that your pivot axles may be a little too long for your slightly worn links. This is a test to make sure your axles are short enough to properly clamp everything.
• Make sure all the bolts are torqued to spec. using two allen wrenches (one on each side).
• Take one allen wrench and try to turn each of the pivot axles and shock axles clockwise.
• If any of these axles spin, tighten the bolts more and try again. If you have an axle where the bolts are very tight, but the axle spins when turned, the bolts are bottomed out on the ends of the axle.
• Remove any spinning pivot axles and shorten 1-2mm using a file or grinder. Install and re-test.

Step 22: Changing the Dropout

• Remove the two bolts using a fresh 6mm allen wrench. These are ti bolts, don't use your worked over 10 year old wrench!
• Once the bolts are removed, tap the dropout off towards the back of the bike.
• To install the new dropout, apply loctite 242 to the bolts and interface between frame and dropout.
• This loctite will eliminate any creaking or movement.
• Torque bolts to 110 in/lbs. (Fig. 22)

Fig. 21